As A Northerner, My Identity Is Reflected In My Work – Katsina-born Fashion Designer, Maccidu

Fashion designer and founder of LA ROBE, Sa’adatu Lawal Maccidu, popularly known as Saa Maccidu, speaks with ZULEIHAT CHATTA about building a fashion brand from Abuja, navigating the realities of local manufacturing, embracing modest fashion, and why authenticity remains the foundation of her business and creative journey.

Looking back, what first drew you to fashion, and when did you realise it was more than just an interest?

Growing up, I was very petite, so finding clothes that fit was always a struggle. Most of my clothes had to be altered, and I spent a lot of time with local tailors asking them to take in my jeans, tops, and dresses. I wanted my clothes to fit a certain way, and I was always particular about how they looked. I also loved what people called “English wear.” Even as a child, I was drawn to clean, stylish pieces. At one point, I was buying clothes from children’s stores because I couldn’t find my size elsewhere.

Over time, I realised I wasn’t just interested in wearing beautiful clothes. I wanted to create them. I started sketching ideas and kept sketchbooks from as far back as 2013. Even while I explored other creative paths like makeup and photography, fashion was the one thing I always came back to.

I officially started designing in 2017, and looking back now, there is nothing I enjoy more. When I reflect on the journey, I realise how far I’ve come, and that gives me even more reason to keep building.

You’ve built LA ROBE in Abuja at a time when many fashion entrepreneurs are relocating production abroad. From unreliable power supply to fluctuating exchange rates and the rising cost of premium fabrics, what does it really take to keep manufacturing local? Have you ever been tempted to move production elsewhere?

When I started, I wasn’t thinking about large-scale production. After learning the basics of sewing during the NYSC Skills Acquisition programme, my older sister bought me a small sewing machine, and I started making simple pieces like kimonos, skirts and trousers from home.

When I realised I couldn’t keep up with the growing demand alone, I started working with an Obioma, the local itinerant tailor many people call a “London tailor.” I had to train him to sew exactly the way I wanted because I already knew the standard I was looking for.

As the business grew, production became more challenging. There were days without electricity, but customers were expecting their orders. We had to rely on generators, and fuel was expensive. At that stage, I didn’t have enough capital.

Those were difficult moments, but I kept pushing regardless. At that stage, there wasn’t enough capital, but I continued building the brand with the resources I had.

Winning awards and appearing on international runways are major milestones, but recognition doesn’t always translate into business growth. After your experience at the Qatar International Arts and Fashion Festival, what changed for your brand in practical terms? Did it open doors to investment, partnerships or new markets?

Going to Qatar wasn’t even my original plan. I had prepared a collection to represent Nigeria in Chicago, inspired by Northwestern Nigeria. I had done the research and completed production, but visa issues and other circumstances meant the trip didn’t go ahead. It was disappointing because I had invested so much in it.

Then a friend called about an opportunity in Qatar. I created a new collection, travelled there and showcased alongside about 100 designers from different countries.

I genuinely didn’t expect to win an award. I thought everyone would receive a participation certificate, so I was already preparing to leave when they started announcing the special awards. Then I heard my name.

Winning the Creative Commodity Design Award meant a lot because it wasn’t based on people knowing my story. It was people looking at my work and recognising its value. That gave me confidence because it reminded me that I was doing something right. Some people in Qatar reached out because they connected with my designs and wanted to work with me. More than anything, the experience gave me confidence that I was on the right path.

I noticed your business extends beyond garments into digital products and lifestyle services. Do you think the traditional fashion business model is sufficient to sustain a brand in Nigeria today? What prompted you to diversify, and what lessons have you learned from doing so?

For me, authenticity has always been the foundation of my brand. I don’t believe in doing something simply because everybody else is doing it. One thing I have learnt is that growth is necessary. As a business owner, you have to evolve because the world is changing. Technology is changing, AI is changing the way people work, and you cannot remain the same forever.

When I created my recent collection, I spent time thinking about the direction I wanted the brand to take. I wanted to do something different without losing the originality that defines LA ROBE. Even now, I consistently receive international orders. That encourages me to keep evolving while remaining true to the brand’s originality.

Modest fashion is a rapidly growing global industry, yet ideas of modesty differ widely across cultures and communities. As a designer, how do you navigate the expectations that come with creating modest wear while staying true to your creative vision? Have there been moments when public opinion challenged your idea of what modest fashion should look like?

Sometimes, creatives can get carried away by trends, especially given the business’s financial aspect. But for me, authenticity has always come first. I’m a Muslim, and I believe you can create beautiful fashion without revealing too much. You can show a little skin once in a while, but you don’t have to compromise your values. That has always been my approach. People’s perception of modest fashion is changing. More women are embracing it because they realise there is elegance in being covered. I believe there is class in modesty.

As a northern girl from Katsina State, I see my identity reflected in my work. Even when I experiment with new collections, I don’t stray from that foundation. My designs evolve, but my values remain the same. I don’t see myself compromising that, as it is part of who I am.

You once spoke about pushing through seasons when nobody was watching and continuing even when things felt uncertain. Was there ever a point when the pressure of running a business and staying creative became too much?

Yes, there was. There was a period when my business experienced a major setback, and for years, I questioned myself. I became mentally exhausted and wondered which direction to take.

It wasn’t because I had stopped loving fashion. I was simply tired. Building a business comes with seasons that people don’t always see. There are moments when you are doing the work, but the results don’t seem to match the effort.

Even during that period, I refused to give up. I decided to rebrand, kept creating, and stayed connected to the vision I had for LA ROBE. Looking back, I think receiving international recognition in Qatar came at exactly the right time. It reminded me I was on the right path and encouraged me to keep going.

There are still many stereotypes about Northern Nigerian women, particularly those who are visibly Muslim and work in the creative industries. Have you ever felt pressured to prove that you can be both deeply rooted in your culture and boldly creative?

I’ve always believed in being myself. Growing up, I always felt different. In many ways, I was a rebel, not because I wanted to rebel against my culture, but because I refused to be put in a box. I am proud to be a northern woman. I’m proud to be Hausa and Fulani, and both of my parents are from Katsina State. Every opportunity I have to represent the North, I do my best because my roots are important to me.

Choosing modesty has never felt like a limitation. It is part of my faith, upbringing and identity. Islam teaches modesty not only in dress but also in character and in the way we live. For me, creativity and culture have never been opposites. They’ve always worked together, and that’s exactly what I want my brand to reflect.

Beyond fashion, what do you hope people remember about Saa Maccidu and the LA ROBE brand?

I want people to remember that everything they see is truly me. I believe in living intentionally, whether it’s how I dress, how I build my business, or how I show up every day.